Daimler Mk. II

Kit #: 31124/MT24 Article by Danilo Carli - 172normandyafv(at)gmail(dot)com
Edited by Marc Mercier

In the box there are two light gray plastic mouldings, two metallic rods, the instructions and a decal set which is the same of the Humber Armoured Car kit. The details are sharp and the pieces flash free. The kit is quite well done and the general dimensions are correct. The turret is a bit short and the hatch even shorter. The kit is a bit simplified, for a nowadays kit a bit too much, but it came from the 70’s when the standards were different; anyway being a good base it can be easily detailed with a little working.

The kit, as told, depicts a Mk II. A little problem arose when I begun to search for useful photos and didn’t find them. So I tried to understand when the Mk II production started. The only information I’ve found was here: http://www.warwheels.net/BritishArmouredCarProductionFiguresArticleBROWN.html where is stated that the Mk II production started in September 1944. This is not a secondary question, because my preferred AFV subject is the Normandy campaign. This forced me to modify my armoured car in a Mk I. About my work, each time I discuss the Mk I conversion I’ll point it out specifically, so one can ignore it if not interested.

Below I list the things I’ve done to add some details to my Daimler. Anyway I ignored a good amount of screw heads: they were so tiny in 1/72 scale that simply the alternative for me was make them oversized (and these look very bad, believe me).


• First of all, the chassis. It is sufficiently well made; anyway the rear lower plate needs to be replaced in a sloped position. The right angle is the projection of the sloped rear upper plate line. I filed off the chassis rear plate and made a new one with plastic

• Mk I: The engine deck had different cooling vents covers layout: four smaller in place of the later larger two. The sides were widened with two 0.5 mm x 1.0 mm rods smoothed with the upper sides.

• Mk I: The cooling grates were in the upper portion and the portion where the kit has the grates was a solid sloped plate with the side walls in line with the hull sides. Plastic sheets were used to make the whole area. The crank hole was drilled in the centre.

• The engine deck received their four grab handles made with metallic wire (yes, they were so high).

• The rear driving place had the vision slot engraved in the rear plate.

• The suspension is a bit too much simplified. To give it a little more detailed look I replaced the wheels arms with 1.20 mm plastic rods. To these I glued the pieces #16, which were lowered and the corners clipped away. The upper arm of the pieces #15 had their horizontal arms filed off before being glued; now new ones, made with stretched sprue, were glued instead. Within the space above the arms, I glued the suspension springs (two each) made with metallic wire wrapped around the kit’s metallic wheel rods. The rearward ones were fixed to the fenders inner roof, while the forward ones needed a support made with plastic.

• The steering rod was made with stretched sprue in front of the forward suspensions.

• The last thing I added to the belly of my Daimler was the exhaust pipe from the engine wall to its box using stretched sprue. It runs along the inner rear left fender and was bent as the original one.

• There were four lifting points just over the wheel axles. These were made with plastic and glued in place. The forward ones needed the opening of their housing in the fenders.

• The fenders were thinned on the transversal edge.

• The spare wheel needs the “V” shaped support on the hull side and the bolting plate hole deepened and enlarged. Under the wheel there was a folded plate.

• The rear mudguards had an inner rounded cut. I made it with a sharp knife.

• The four towing points were made with the same metallic wire.

• I added the rear lights using plastic rod sections

• I added also fire extinguishers, made with plastic rod sections, stretched sprue and metallic stripes.

• The wheels are well done although they look a little too thick. I didn’t find the correct width to confirm this, anyway they look well and I kept them as they are. The three ejector marks were sanded away. When gluing, I kept them slightly canted because in the plans they are never showed vertical. After they were firmly glued I flattened the ground contact points for better realism.


• The turret is a bit short. I added a 1 mm plastic shim shaped in place.

• The roof had a gap at more or less 2.75-3.00 mm from the rear plate, 0.75-0.80 mm depth (more or less). I erased the plastic from the roof and shaped the hatch edge.

• The hatch is a couple of millimetres short. I made a new longer one with plastic sheet to reach the new rear edge. The open hatch must show the structure and the inner handles. I added the stopper close to the rear plate.

• I added the pistol ports on both sides (2mm diameter)…

• … and the small port on the left side of the front.

• The side vision slots were engraved in the plates at 5.00-5.20 mm from the lower edge.

• The periscope was enlarged with a rounded piece of plastic, cut toward the front. A rectangular cover was made with plastic.

• I scratchbuilt the two antenna bases with plastics strips and rod segments.

• The smoke dischargers were only fixed on the right side in every photo I’ve seen. It is a bit undersized and short. I added two plastic rod segments in front of the kit part, glued inversed to respect the instructions and paying attention to the slightly diverging firing angle.

• Mk I: A new mantlet was needed. After having closed the hole I made it with a piece of plastic (11.00 mm wide, 5.00 mm high and 2.00 mm deep) two thin stripes and a sloped shim (the mount) on the back. The gun was glued to this with a hexagonal base. The kit MG was placed and the gunsight hole was opened in a short rod segment, both parts were added on the gun sides. Here the bolt heads are large enough for them to be realistically represented with stretched sprue segments sanded down once the glue was dry.



Two vehicles are suggested:

F208338 it is a very generic armoured car of the 7th Armoured Division in Egypt. The serial is a correct Mk II census number; being part of the first batch. However since the Mk II was built later in the war, its African operational engagement must be fictional.
F208944 it should be a “T” census number for an Universal Carrier and not for a Daimler. I didn’t find its photo, however the Daimler vehicle depicted looks exactly like F208148 (or 145?) which was a Mk I (see here: http://www.documentingreality.com/forum/attachments/f240/159558d1272446628-post-battle-berlin-fuehrer-bunker-1945-british-armored-fighting-vehicles-daimler-mk-v-passing-russian-soldiers.jpg ). The AoS number 44 background is wrong, being black instead of blue over green.

The markings aren’t well-defined, but comprise also the serials F26979 for a Humber Armoured Car Mk II, two little red A Sqn triangles and a couple of divisional badge for the 1st AD, 7th AD and 10th AD, always useful for other projects.


Well, this kit looks like a nowadays quick building kit, but it is fundamentally correct and can be easily detailed. The decal set is really poor and a new one would be welcome. As far as I know, actually it is the only Daimler Armoured Car plastic kit on the market. A resin upgrading could be a good inspiration for a kit maker…


on history and technical data : http://www.daimler-fighting-vehicles.co.uk/

Some walk arounds :



Preview sample purchased by the author.


This model can be purchased from Tracks & Troops

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Article Last Updated: 23 May 2015