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Unimodel (UM) |
Panzerkampfwagen
38(t) |
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Kit
#340,342,351 |
Review by Rob Haelterman Heman((aa))advalvas.be |
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UM has
so far released all major variants of the PzKpfw 38(t) and the Panzerjäger on
that chassis. In this review we will take a closer look at the following
PzKpfw 38(t) kits. UM 340 German Light Tank PzKpfw
38(t) Ausf. C UM 342 Munitionspanzer 38(t) UM 351 Commander’s tank Pz
Bef 38(t) As the
whole series of kits has most sprues in common, the comments given here are
transferable to the other kits. Please also check Doug Chaltry’s discussion
of kit 340 (with a discussion of the Hungarian markings) here. History and versions The
Pz.Kpfw. 38(t) was a direct descendant of the Czech LT vz 38 light tank (also
produced by UM) and was one of the better designs of its time. After the
occupation of Pz.Kpfw.38(t)
tanks were used by 7 and 8 Pz.Div. during the invasion of The
PzKpfw 38(t) (the “t” was dropped in 1943) can basically be split
into an early series with a two piece driver’s plate (Ausf. A-D) and a
late series with a straight driver’s plate (Ausf. E-G). The
variants were Ausf. A : Basically
a LT vz.38 with minor modifications Production:
05/39 à 11/39. Ausf. B : Addition
of Notek and convoy light. Omission of Czech “battle aerial”. Production:
01/40 à 04/40. Ausf. C - D: (Minimal difference between C
& D) Thicker
frontal armor. Redesigned antenna mount. Annular turret splash guard. Some C/D
had a repositioned muffler (higher) to allow for the installation of a smoke
discharge unit, resulting in a bend in the exhaust pipe. Production:
C: 05/40 à 08/40. D: 09/40 à11/40 Note:
according to [2] the Ausf. D already had a straight front plate. If anyone
can comment on this, please do. Ausf. E –F : (Minimal difference between E
& F) Straight
driver’s plate and thicker armor. Fewer bolts on the turret front,
driver’s plate and engine deck. No protective ring for the turret MG. Repositioned
muffler (see Ausf. C). Provision for spare tracks on the glacis plate. Production:
E: 11/40 à 05/41. F: 05/41 à10/41 Ausf. S : Confiscated
production for Production: 05/41 --10/41 Ausf. G : Even
fewer bolts on frontal plate, turret and engine deck. Notek on glacis plate
instead of fender (available as retrofit). Addition of towing pintle. Production:
10/41 à 06/42 Ausf. H,K,L & M: Only
used for Selbstfahrlafetten (Marder etc). The kits Common aspects The dimensions of these
kits agree well with the drawings by Mr Hubert Cance in [5], and the detail
in the kit is quite nice. All kits share the same
lower hull and suspension. The hull goes together very well, but the suspension
needs some careful planning -
The tracks are link and length and are nicely done, but the linking
pegs are a bit thicker than the cutout on the receiving end. -
The manual would have you install the tracks backwards ! -
The idler and (to a lesser extent) the drive sprocket are a bit too
narrow for the tracks, requiring the builder to add a spacer. -
The alignment of the running gear is quite difficult, and careful
dry fitting is required. You might want to position the road-wheels closer to
the hull and/or the return rollers further out. It might also be a good idea
to install all components to the lateral hull plates before constructing the
hull. -
The axle of the idler is off center. Personally, I like this, as it
allows you to position the idler slightly differently to cater for the track
length and/or sag. -
The top end of the track is given in 2 sections, making the creation
of realistic sag a bit more difficult. You might want to use the continuous
part on top and the 2 sections on the bottom instead. A small fret of etched
parts for a small bin and the stiffeners for the fenders is also included.
While nicely done they are quite thick. This makes handling them easier, but
distorting them harder. The tools are separate,
but quite simplistic. The shovel, for instance is very flat. As one of the
differences between the various Ausf. is the number of bolts/rivets, UM
caters for this option by giving a number of miniscule rivet heads to add
yourself. Very thoughtful to think about it, but I had rather preferred they
molded all bolts on, and asked the modeler to remove some, which would be so
much easier. I do not seriously believe many modelers will take the trouble
to add these little buggers. The variants without a
hull MG require you to add a plug to close the hole. Unfortunately, this
ruins the effect of the continuous bolted plate that was used in the real
thing. It is very difficult to fill the joint between the plug and the rest
of the plate without ruining the bolts. It might have been better if UM had
required you to drill a hole in a continuous plate if you required a hull MG.
Again very thoughtful, but ill-engineered. Small details that
differ from the plans at hand are the exact pattern of the grating on the
engine deck, and the shape of the lower real hull (angular instead of
rounded). The engine deck is a bit too thin on the sides (and too close to
the fenders) and had some slight sink marks in my examples. The fenders are a
bit thick, but might easily be thinned on the sides. The small half
cylinders on the rear plate, close to the idlers, are incorrectly oriented.
You should, if you care, turn them 90°. You don’t get a
rear convoy light. On the glacis plate,
the splash guard for the transmission cover is too shallow. The manual is of a very
good quality. Exact version, specific parts, and kit bashing options Kit 340 The kit contains
specific parts for the early series of tanks: driver’s plate and
matching hull roof and turret frontal plate. According to my references it
corresponds to an early Ausf. C with the straight muffler.
Kit 342 The kit contains a hull
that is specific for a late series (E-G). The straight muffler in the kit
points to an Ausf. E or F, while the position of the Notek and the towing
pintle points to an Ausf G. It more or less depends on the number of bolts
you want to add, and what you consider as a retrofit, and what not. The bent
muffler can be had from another kit, or the small bend can be scratchbuilt.
The only kit specific part is the tarpaulin. If you want to build
other Ausf. as an ammo carrier, you can buy this kit for the tarpaulin, or
scratchbuild the latter, leaving you with a spare turret for a bunker. Also note that some
ammo carriers retained the hull MG, which makes live just that bit easier by
avoiding the use of the plug (see earlier).
Kit 351 The vehicle has the
characteristics of an Ausf. G (one of its sprues is marked with the number
341, corresponding to the Ausf. G tank kit), although by the time the Ausf. G
was in production most command vehicles were equipped with a star antenna
instead of a frame antenna. You can easily backdate it to an early Ausf. E by
the choice of the number of bolts, and by building it with a straight muffler
(just omit the bend). If you want an even earlier variant, you can easily add
the frame antenna to another kit.
Decals and marking options UM has the habit of
providing a number of spare decals on every sheet without any indication how to
use them. Sometimes it is even obvious that some would better fit another
variant of the tank (like the early war rhomboids included with a later war
tank). I find this very frustrating, but it is of course much better than no
spare decals at all. Kit 340
According to the instructions: 1) “310”, white on a small black
rhomboid (metal plate), Panzer Gray, 3. Light Division, 2) “Red 121”, Panzer Gray, 7 PzDiv, 3) No turret number, Panzer Gray, 7 PzDiv, 4) “White 102”, Panzer Gray, Hungarian
1.Armoured Division, Don, Summer 1942. No unit insignia. According to Doug Chaltry’s discussion the Hungarian markings are
incorrect. Apart from this you get a number of spare decals,
including “Red 1152”, “Yellow 522” (Russian style),
crosses, “Yellow 9”, two very smile white 12s, and the unit
insignia of 22 Pz.Div (which I haven’t seen equipped with
Pz.Kpfw.38(t)) Kit 342
Three (non-specified) German versions, 2 in
dark Grey and 1 in Dark Yellow. Generic decals. Some letters are a bit rough
around the edges and appear scratched (due to printing problems, real
scratching or intentionally ?). But of course you just might like that, as it
could be the same in reality. Kit 351
According to the instructions: 1) “White RO2”, Panzer Grey, 19PzDiv,
Eastern Front 1941. Unfortunately the Wolfsangel of the division is not
included 2) “Red 1151”, Dark Yellow, 20 PzDiv,
Eastern Front 1943. Strangely enough, the unit insignia is not that of
19PzDiv (arrow piercing curved or straight line) but that of 7 PzDiv You also get a bunch of spare decals, which are
not mentioned in the instructions, which is quite frustrating (to me): -
various
styles crosses -
black rhomboid
plates with number 301 (early war style), which would be better for an early
war Panzer. -
4 red
stars and hand written yellow 521 (Soviet style). I know the Soviets captured
some 38(t), but I have not seen a PzBefWg yet. -
Unit
insignia for 8,10 and 22 PzDiv With the unit insignia that are provided,
you can also represent 1,2,4 PzDiv (by turning them upside down), although
these did not use the Pz.Kpfw.38(t). On the other hand, I don’t have
reference mentioning 10 and 22 PzDiv either, so I am at a loss here. In any
case, you have stuff to add to the spares box. References: [1] Die Panzer-Kampfwagen 35(t) und 38(t)
und ihre Abarten, Miltährfahrzeuge 11, W.J. Spielberger, Motorbuch Verlag. [2] PzKpfw 38(t), In Action 19, C.K. Kliment
and H.L. Doyle, Squadron/Signal Publications [3] 1940 Campagne à l’Ouest 1 & 2, Steelmasters Hors série 5 & 10 [4] Praga, LT vz.38, Pz.Kpfw.38(t), MBI,
2002 [5] Befehlspanzer, Steelmasters Hors série 3 |
